Got a little wasted earlier tonight. Vacation, ladies. But before any of that happened, I had a fulfilling and very full day. Woke up on the little shelf this place gave me to sleep on, cleaned up, and hit the city in the pre-morning light.
The goal was to explore all the blocks around the Old Town square, redo the square, make my way over to something called "Cathedral Island" and call it a Wroclaw. Mission accomplished.
It's been really nice to explore these cities at dawn. No one's around, and you get to see the buildings stretch and yawn. This was the right place to visit after Krakow, because the cities are sorrrt of similar. They have the two largest medieval town squares in Europe and the "spirit" of both cities is informed by them.
It's not a bad way to set yourself up, to have a big gathering place like that. I mean, it can be a little touristy, but there's enough history and flavor, I think, that the locals still like to get their french fries there.
Wroclaw, being so far West in Poland was once owned by Germany. The krauts called it "Breslau" and after they accidentally shook the hornet's nest that was Russia in WWII, it was a "fortress city" they used to try and keep the Reds from taking Berlin. No one gets past Fortress Breslau!
They did, though. Sacked the place like a bunch of socialist linebackers. But, it's rebuilt now. And the Russians gave it back to Poland. Wasn't that nice?
Bought some yogurt to drink in a little bodega. The main franchise here has a little frog logo, so I look for the frog. And usually, I find it. Cramped places with crowded shelves and shriveled apples. This morning, the machine that pisses out hot chocolate was busted, and the cashier was trying to fix it for some dude who just had to have his hot chocolate.
I was like, "Can I just pay? All I need is this water and yogurt. Two of your Earth seconds to complete the transaction." But she REALLY wanted this guy to have his hot chocolate.
Eventually got my goods and drifted, drifted along curving streets and angled avenues. It's a nice little wheel they have here with some nice bridges for spokes. The word for "bridge" is "most."
"They mostly cross the rivers at night, mostly." - Newt.
Saw some weirdo buildings and some stunning churches gone to seed. Just, everything here is hundreds of years old. It ain't Wisconsin. You get centuries of reverence or neglect. Unlike some other countries, Poland seems to have "moved on" from all the bullshit it's gone through. Like, Romania was still kind of reeling from the Commies. Hungary still had the thousand-yard stare, but Poland's all coffee shops and sausage ceremonies.
Oh, this town has a 24-hour flower market. Isn't that sweet. You never know when you're gonna need them. My landlord in Greenpoint was a florist. It must be a big part of their culture. Like, something they take for granted but isn't a "stereotype." Like, no one's like, "Hey, it's a Pole. Where's your flowers, Pole?" but they could.
Tried to get some eggs, but none of the places were open yet, so I looked at a little map and planned some routes to areas I hadn't been to yet. Made a plan that would take me to "Cathedral Island" and back home and trekked out there. Got caught in the rain.
It was nice. Kind of cold, but not unpleasant. It was cool to feel the world grow dark and then wet. There's something about being on vacation that just makes normal shit seem wonderful. Like, in Seattle, I would have been making the duck face and been like, "Oh, it's raining. What a bold choice, universe. You really put some thought into this one."
But here, I'm like, "Oh, how interesting! I wonder how it shall feel!" and I mean it.
Cathedral Island was very peaceful, and true to its name, it was loaded with churches. What's that place in New York.... the Cloisters! It was kind of like that without an entry fee. Apparently, at night a dude lights some gas lamps, and it has a real old-fashioned Ben Franklin smell.
I liked circling the big old buildings. Tourist groups gathered and bored one another in Dutch.
Found some cool street art along the way (not on the island) and made my way back home. My map was a butcher's blend. From the rain and the constant, "Now where am I"-ing, I had sent it to crease heaven. Figured I'd just wing it. Found a little walkway that went under the highway, but it was dark and stank. I also wasn't sure where it would let me out. Probably the Jewish cemetery.
I just followed the smell of last night's bender and located my room in South Sketchistan. I reckon I can't judge too much after the Peaches Jubilee I threw for myself last night, but we're not there yet. Threw my cheesy jeans in the wash and took a nap. I'd done the whole town in three hours. Lord have mercy, it was only 9 a.m.
Napped, ate some egg rolls Kristy McNichol gave me, and read a little bit. A cheeky guide book suggested there were some interesting murals in a far-flung area. It had previously seemed too far away, but I'd done everything else, so I put on my wet jeans (Poland aint never heard of no dryer. Oh, sure, they've got a clothesline, but ain't nobody got time for that), and went back out.
Nice, long ramble past a carnival that was being disassembled. I'm sure some folks had some nice times there during Easter. Saw a half T-Rex body there that cracked me up. I'm sure one for cracking up. Went across a long bridge and enjoyed a view of the Oder. Some older dudes were fishing in it. What lives in the Oder? Stinkbass? Smellfins?
Cute little University village on the other side. Everything was still all wet from the morning showers. I cracked myself up again thinking it was some kind of mass Smigus Dyngus celebration. I love everyone, so I'm going to make everyone wet. With rain - Drunk Jesus.
Bunch of skinny scholars moved with purpose across the campus. Interesting to think about them studying and living. Reading and shopping for scarves. The murals were cool, and there was a pretty great crumbly building. It seemed super unsafe, but I saw people living in it. They punch their televisions just like everyone else.
Then, a loooong walk back to the city square. Rynek, they call it. Both towns call it that. It must MEAN something. Like "square." Had a steak at a place called The Sphinx, and read a magazine about the city to see if I'd missed anything. Big lightning storm outside. People ran with newspapers over their heads.
Magazine got me all fired up to try some coffee at a place called Vinyl Cafe and vodka at a place called... um, The Super Long Stairs, or something. I can't remember, because I had the vodka there. The cafe was cool, and I'm sure if I were spending a few days here, it would be a "hangout."
Bunch of locals wearing glasses and tracing the rims of their coffee cups with clean clicking fingers while Sarah Vaughn and Serge Gainsbourg played in the background. You could see the record spinning on an old turntable. The cashier was very careful.
Then I took myself to the stairs place, which was like an old house, and I wrote a shitload of dialog for plays and got wursted on this weird honey vodka and this vodka that they also get buffalo drunk on, and it was just a really nice time.
Then I was like, "Home, James!" and I was James, so I got back, planned out a million trains, passed out (gently), and now I'm up in advance of the Dawn Train to Torun.
I'm certain I'll sleep. Farewell, Wroclaw. I liked you, and I trusted you enough to drink in you.
Copernicus!
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